Outdoor Ontario
Photography => Equipment and Technique => Topic started by: ravynne40 on September 27, 2009, 10:29:20 AM
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does anyone use polarizing filters? does it reduce brightness and reflections off water and whites?
i'm finding my camera is shooting light and the whites are basically really white (almost too white)
and some reflections off water surfaces are also light mostly on bright sunny days.
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I use a polarizing filter for scenic shots only. I try to keep my shutter speeds up and the filters tend to make that a little more difficult.
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Hi Irene
I only use ND (neutral density) filters when shooting waterfalls and use to use polorizers when I was using film. As for digital, I rely on my histograhm in my camera to adjust my whites when shooting a white object. I usually under exspose to 2 F stops, somtimes 3 on a bright sunny day and a slightly faster shutter speed for this application depending on what I am shooting, then I can adjust my exposure in photoshop to bring it back up without blowing out the whites. Once the whites are blown out, it's very hard to get rid of. Also try ISO 100 or 200 on bright days.
I hope this helps you.
Clemens 8)
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thank you both, i just learned how to work with the f-stops recently so am still figuring it all out, I never thought to use the histogram in the camera but I will give it a go
there's nothing worse then shooting a beautiful white bird or waterfalls and not being able to fix the blow out.
i am shooting at 200 ISO. So that helps
thanks again
Irene
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Irene,
A polarizer will help bring out the colours on a sunny day, but it will cost you 1-1/2 f-stops, So, if you're shooting with a long lens, you are only likely to want to use a polarizer when it's really bright, or with a tripod.
BB
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Just to add that a polarizer won't do anything for blowing out whites. I rarely need a polarizer when shooting birds, but it is very useful for taking the glare off foliage. It'll make a difference for fall colours.. you can test out the effect with your sunglasses.
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Thanks for the great replies.
Will it help with shooting in snow/or snow covered ground?
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It might help a bit in some bright sunlight situations, but don't get your hopes up. The problem is that your eye can distinguish a much broader dynamic range of light than your camera's sensor (or film). You'll have much more success brightening the dark areas with a flash than darkening the light areas.
Natural light is typically less contrasty on overcast days and near dawn and dusk.
BB
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Polarizing filter is generally used to remove glare off surfaces. It will cause you to loose about 1 stop of light. I use it for scenics, while never with action photography. Dependent on the angle of incident light, polarizing filter may or may not improve the subject reflectance, therefore improve the saturation and contrast. It is very useful in scenes that have water, sky, even interior architecture shots that have reflective surface.
In general, to get a proper exposure, unless you are a very experienced photographer, the Exposure Compensation button is needed whenever the metered shot appeared incorrect. The rule is: To keep white white, over-expose; while to keep black black, under-expose. It applies to everything, even in portraits. This is because the camera meter everything at 18% grey tone. To eliminate guess work, and only if you can reach the subject at hand, use an incidence meter. For a cheaper alternative, I also carry a Grey Card (18% grey) for subjects such as flower photography which has great tonal range. Hope this is helpful.
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Thanks, it is very helpful and informative.
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In regard to the use of histograms to evaluate the file as described above by Clemens, it is a more advance technique requiring more knowledge in interpretation. Please see the links below for explanation:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/histograms.htm (http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/histograms.htm)
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/yrgb.htm (http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/yrgb.htm)
In the days of film, there is an opposing requirement in exposure. For slide film with narrower exposure lattitude, always avoid blowing highlights. Therefore set the ISO at one third stop underexpose. Conversely, for negative film, always avoid loosing into a black hole. Therefore set the ISO at one third stop overexpose. In the digital world, it is a more complex matter with a very steep learning curve. One can learn a lot by going to many photo websites, such as:
http://photo.net/ (http://photo.net/)
http://www.naturephotographers.net/sitemap.html (http://www.naturephotographers.net/sitemap.html)
http://www.shutterbug.com/techniqueslp/ (http://www.shutterbug.com/techniqueslp/)
Enjoy the making of great photography, by not simply taking pictures (remember the Canon ad). :)
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To further understand the use of filters or filter system in Landscape & Nature Photography, these articles may be very helpful:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutori ... ilters.htm (http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lens-filters.htm)
http://www.bythom.com/filters.htm (http://www.bythom.com/filters.htm)
http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/01/se ... using.html (http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/01/seven-rules-for-effectively-using.html)
Good birding and photography
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Here are two photos I took . One with a polarizer and one without . I also use it when taking pictures of kayakers.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5122/5274386864_c58c083cef.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5207/5273781585_0df1acc1cf.jpg)
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One further issue to consider in the use of filters is the Flare Factor. It is much discussed amongst the purists whether a "protective" UV filter should be installed on all lens:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/colum ... b-05.shtml (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-feb-05.shtml)
It has been said that much of the effect of filters can be corrected during post-processing with software such as Adobe Lightroom 3 or Photoshop CS5, dependent on one's preference in the use of time in the field vs in front of the computer. I adopt the shooting discipline from the film days, that is "do it right the first time". This further article will assist in creating a filter system for Landscape & Nature Photography:
http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/03/es ... lling.html (http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/03/essential-filters-for-controlling.html)
Good birding and photography.
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Thanks for sharing this information.
I can't believe how much difference the filters really make in those shots ..I am also looking at puffers! I discovered them at a dinner party, a friend of mine was using them, and wow let me tell you what a difference and how nice the pictures came out, especially clear and clean, not light shadows on the faces of the people, you know how sometimes light reflects off the nose or cheeks, there was none of that, just soft lovely skin tones.
I will study the websites you have given more
Thank you Michael.
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Photography is said to be "Painting with Light", whether it is from natural or artificial sources. What you described as "puffers" is presumably mean diffusers. The use of artificial lighting, meaning studio light box or electronic flash with miniature diffusers, in portrait photography is a science into itself.
For an essential understanding of lighting, please read the following. At the later part of the article described the use of Electronic Flash may be helpful in the use of "puffers":
http://photo.net/making-photographs/light (http://photo.net/making-photographs/light)
http://photo.net/photo/studio-photography (http://photo.net/photo/studio-photography)
Incidentally, there will be a seminar held in January, 2011 regarding the issue of "work the light" by a speaker named, Philip Sun at the Etobicoke Camera Club near Islington & Dundas area. There are so much to learn from fellow photographers. Guests are welcome if one is interested (see Program 2010-2011):
http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/ (http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/)
Good birding and photography
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In Landscape Photography, there is the call for the use of wide-angle lenses between 18-24 mm (in 35mm terms) in order to capture scenics involving subject matter within the foreground and background together. One issue that comes into consideration is Vignetting in the use of a filter system.
The following article will be helpful to understand this issue:
http://singhray.blogspot.com/2009/04/fi ... lding.html (http://singhray.blogspot.com/2009/04/filters-holders-and-vignetting-building.html)
Good birding and photography.
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Thank you for this valuable information, the sites are great teaching sites. I will see if i can make it to the seminar as well.
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There is a saying that "a picture is worth a thousand words". To paraphrase it in the world of the Internet, "a link is worth countless words".
If you are planning to attend the ECC seminar, please study the Map carefully since the road entry off Islington is visually confusing. When one approaches from northbound Islington, there will be a "one way sign pointing Left". But it is referring to the road to the right (or north) of the median of Anglesey Blvd. Please inform the greeter and sign the Guest List. As it a special seminar, there may be a charge of $5 for non-member. Please see direction below:
http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/PDF% ... am_web.pdf (http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/PDF%20Files/09_ECC_Program_web.pdf)
http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/ (http://www.etobicokecameraclub.org/)
Enjoy the making of a great photograph by following the footsteps from the masters before us:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how- ... -tips.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/quick-tips/20-top-landscape-tips.html)
Good birding and photography
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The popular French drop-in style filter manufacturer, Cokin has been sold to the Japanese manufacturer, Hoya. As a result in the near term, the Cokin "P" series style filter is not available until it is offered under the Hoya brand name.
In the meantime, the drop-in style filter kit is available only through high end brand, such as Lee. For those interested in creating a filter system for Landscape photography, please wait with patience from Hoya's release.
Good birding and photography.
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Cokin P compatible filters are available from many sources, as the Cokin ND filters are among the worst out there (horrible colour casts). I use a Singh-Ray that's much better - also way more expensive.
I also have the Cokin P and knockoff holders, and there's no difference in quality, just price.
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It is absolutely correct that Singh-Ray, as described in the articles posted in this thread, is better quality than the popular Cokin graduated ND filters.
There are many brands of high end filters availble in the market. It is true in most situation with optics, one's budget dictates the acquired quality. Please see the cost differentials at the link below:
http://www.vistek.ca/results/CameraFilt ... op-In.aspx (http://www.vistek.ca/results/CameraFilters/filters-cam%20filt-drop_in/Drop-In.aspx)
Good birding and photography.
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There are benefits and limitations in either the use of graduated ND filters or the Photoshop/Lightroom in the control of exposure gradient of an image.
The following article explains the use of Photoshop Layer options for those inclined towards this aspect of image management:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how- ... capes.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/photoshop-and-other-software/enhance-your-landscapes.html)
Good birding and photography.
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A polarizing filter is an indispensable tool in landscape photography. To master the use of this filter, one must have a more thorough understanding of the various facets of its influence to an image. The following article offers much details in the use of a polarizing filter in the field:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how- ... rizer.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/shooting/do-more-with-your-polarizer.html)
Good birding and photography.
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In the age of digital photography, a balanced and proper exposure can be mastered through the use of filters in the "Do it right the first time" approach or through the post-processing avenue via various available software such as Lightroom or Photoshop. On the other hand, the use of Camera Filters would be a second nature for those started in the film days.
The following article described the decision tree via a flow-chart on the use of a variety of Camera Filters that are indispensable in one's photo gear collection:
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/ ... exposures/ (http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/02/28/camera-filters-the-only-cheat-sheet-youll-ever-need-to-get-beautifully-balanced-exposures/)
Good birding and photography.