Outdoor Ontario
Photography => Equipment and Technique => Topic started by: MEGHAN on March 01, 2011, 08:42:05 AM
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Hey Folks,
I'm looking at purchasing a nikon 300mm f2.8 af-s ii.
It's a older model before VR
My question is...how much am I going to miss VR?
If I shoot at somewhat fast shutter speeds, which I usually do, do I need VR or am I going to regret not having t?
Thanks in advance.
Meghan
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Meghan,
Some of the best lenses don't have VR. I wouldn't worry about it if you're shooting higher shutter speeds. I would think that you'll be fine with anything over 1/500...
That will be an incredible lens, boy o boy...
All the best
David B.
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To amend...
maybe 1/500 is being ambitious. I forget that those f2.8 lenses are quite heavy. If you're handholding it, you'd need a considerably faster shutter speed, I'd think. But if you're up over 1/1000 I can't imagine that VR would make any difference. I've used an old 300mm f4 manual focus a number of times, and the pictures were always very sharp...
Hope this is somewhat helpful
David B
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I think it really depends on the photographer. For me I would never buy a non VR lense, its a must have for me having tried a non VR and returned it.
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I think it all depends on how you plan to use the lens. VR (or IS or OS) is not a gimmick. It really works. It can produce dramatically better results when you are hand-holding a lens, especially a long lens. If you plan to use a tripod or even maybe a monopod, save your money and don't worry about it. If you plan to hand-hold most of the time, it is worth the extra money. Those wonderful optics will be undone by camera shake. In that situation, you might be better off with an optically inferior lens with VR.
It's one of those trade-offs you have to decide for yourself.
BB
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I would echo Brian's comments Meghan. I have great difficulty hand holding my 400, even with the flight brace on. It's my major source of frustration to be honest - always on the tripod. Many people have told me you should turn the IS off, if you're on a tripod - although I have used it on a tripod with great results. Do you think you could hand hold? Is there a possibility you could try the lens before buying?
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The folks raise a good point! I can handhold a 300mm f4, but not a 300m 2.8 - simply too heavy. Please, yes, absolutely, try the lens first if possible...
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Hi again
Thom Hogan is a Nikon guy who seems to know his business...here's what he has to say about VR
http://bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm (http://bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm)
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I think it all depends on how you plan to use the lens. VR (or IS or OS) is not a gimmick. It really works. It can produce dramatically better results when you are hand-holding a lens, especially a long lens.
And don't forget these fat lenses take teleconverter much better than the smaller aperture lens of the same length. A 300/2.8 makes a very nice 400/4. And I've even seen very good looking photos from 600/5.6. So you're in effect getting a series of lengths, with the bare lens only the shortest one in the set. Take this into account when considering minimum shutter speed means.
If you plan to use a tripod or even maybe a monopod, save your money and don't worry about it. If you plan to hand-hold most of the time, it is worth the extra money.
Actually long lenses are very cumbersome on tripod with regular head that locks solid. They are best used with gimbal head that supports the weight and remove all the torque on the setup and yet allow you to point the whole thing any way you want. But since gimbal heads don't lock up solid, VR is in fact very helpful. As for monopod, the photo below shot from monopod with 700mm at 1/125 sec:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3039/2917520884_bdea2beee8_o.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/accwai/2917520884/)
It wouldn't have been possible without IS.
In this case, I think the price difference between a non-VR 300/2.8 and the latest version with VR is going to be huge. So on the one hand, you really are giving up a lot of flexibility, but on the other hand, the latest version might not be affordable at all. It's a tough call...
Andy
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Image stabilization technology is a wonderful innovation that expanded the limit of photographic possibilities. The application of Nikon's VR in telephoto optics in Bird Photography has its pros and cons, as explained in the link with Tom Hogan's article on VR.
These articles may be helpful in the issue of image stabilization technology:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear ... d-you.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear/lenses/image-stabilization-and-you.html)
http://www.naturephotographers.net/am0501-1.html (http://www.naturephotographers.net/am0501-1.html)
In the making of a great photograph, one must observe the essential photographic skills in order to compliment the benefits of modern technology:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how- ... raphy.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/quick-tips/7-steps-for-sharper-photography.html)
Good birding and photography.
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To me, VR/IS is only important when shooting with handholding with a relatively slow shutter speed. For example, when you shoot forest birds or concerts or in house events, it is not uncommon to use a shutter speed around 1/200s or below. If it is more convenient for your to handhold your lens and camera in this situation, a VR/IS definitely help.
Another common use of VR/IS is panning with handheld. When shooting car races it will be more convenient and flexible for you to handhold the lens then pan and shoot with a slow shutter speed.
VR/IS is however not necessary if the shutter speed is faster than the inverse of your lens' focal length, roughly speaking. Take you 300mm f2.8 as an example, if you can maintain the shutter speed faster than 1/300s, theoretically you don't need the VR/IS at all.
Moreover, when used on top of a sturdy tripod, you actually need to turn off any VR/IS in order to get a sharper image when slow shutter speed is used, as VR/IS may cause minor vibrations on a tripod.
In shooting birds in flights, VR/IS is not important at all as usually you need to maintain a shutter speed as high as 1/2000s which far beyond the inverse of you 300mm lens' focal length.
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Thanks everyone,
I appreciate all your views/opinions and advice.
All the links are very helpful.
Thanks for taking the time to reply to my post. All the info will come in very handy when making a decision.
Meghan
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Image stabilization technology has greatly expanded the shooting parimeters of nature photography involving moving subjects. The following article is informative in further the understanding the characteristics and selection of of IS for use in the field:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear ... ation.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/gear/lenses/the-promise-of-stabilization.html)
Good birding and photography.
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The modern photographic equipment is a complex piece of engineering marvel built into the digital body and the lens barrel. A thorough understanding of these intricacies will greatly enhance the enjoyment in the field.
The following article is very helpful in exploring the various aspects of the AF system of your photographic system:
http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how- ... mance.html (http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/how-to/shooting/boost-your-af-performance.html)
Good birding and photography