Birds in Flight
Outdoor Ontario

Birds in Flight

Rob'in'To

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I'm joining a small group in a photo session of captive raptors early next month.   We'll be doing both static and birds in flight.

I do okay with birds in flight (not great), but the occasional decent shot leaves me uncertain how I got the picture.

I'm using a Canon Rebel T1i with a Sigma 150-500mm lens on a tripod.  

Any one out there who may offer some tips/settings that may help me with this outing?  I'm not great with technical lingo.  Even a website that might help.  

I normally shoot in AV mode.  My F-stop is normally around 6.3, ISO varies on lighting, but I usually start at 400 and see how it goes.  

A frined of mine tells me to turn up the f-stop to around F8 or F9 for the flight shots, make sure the image stabilizer is OFF when on the tripod.  That's about it.  

Private messagess are welcomed as well.  

I thank you in advance if you can assist me.   :)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »
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Paul O'Toole

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I use a slightly different setup/gear a Nikon D50 w/80-400VR handheld.

1.  When using a tripod leave the VR (Vibration Reduction) off.Image Stabilization & vibration reduction lenses look for vibrations in your camera in order to reduce it. If they don’t find any they actually can cause it, & as a result actually cause camera shake.

* I would shoot that lense handheld with VR/Stabilization on for flight shots if you can, much easier to follow a flying raptor and shoot than trying to move a tripod or monpod head to keep up.

2. When shooting flying birds let the camera do the work for setttings selection, you don't have time to keep playing with the settings.

*You paid good money for the gear it is quite capable of giving you good results, concentrate on the moving bird instead.

3. Not sure what the setting is called on your body but I use AF-C which focuses continuously while shutter button is pressed halfway.

*This is a must setting for getting good flight shots.

4. Changing setting other than manually adjusting the exposure depending on lighting is all you should need to do to achieve decent results.

* Go out and practice on some birds IE: Gulls etc before you go and check out your results at home. This will give you an idea of how your doing.

5. Focus point single is the best for flying birds. Try to aim and focus on the head instead of the body, will give you better results and less post editing. Of course this is not always possible so the body is fine, but in a controlled enviroment this should be fairly easier to do.

Here is a sample of a flight shoot taken recently with my camera in P Mode (camera picks all the settings); AF-C with VR enabled handheld. Lighting was okay but not ideal.

Sounds like your flight shots will be more at eye level which is fine, forget about the background and focus on the bird you'll rock it out. The 3 shots below are by no means excellent but with an older 6MP camera thats about all I can manage.

Scaup in flight



Red-tailed Hawk



Snowy Owl



To summarize:

If using a tripod leave the VR off, for handheld leave the VR on.

Let the camera body select most of the settngs automatically (my personal preference alot of shooters like to adjust settings which is fine)

Select Auto Focus continous along with single focus point.

Focus on the raptors head. If you are not able to do this, go for the body. No point is loosing the shot of a small detail like this.

Don't worry too much about the background, sounds like a static location so the background is most likely preselected for you.

Sun position should be behind you or even slightly off the to the side.

Depending on lighting you could manual adjust the exposure + or - in small intervals as needed.

Practice before you go but most importantly have a great time doing it :)
« Last Edit: March 18, 2014, 05:20:01 PM by Paul O'Toole »


Rob'in'To

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Thank you Paul for the lengthy reply!

Notes are being made and I will take some time out for specific practice with birds in flight before the shoot.

I admire your work, seeing the pics here, and in that Bird Watching Magazine online.  

Cheers!

I might post some shots from the shoot in this thread after the adventure.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »
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Kin Lau

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On a Canon, you'll want AI-Servo. For flight shots, forget the tripod unless you have a Wimbley. Start with ISO 400 and shutter speed of 1/1000 in manual exposure mode, and leave IS off. It takes longer to acquire focus if IS is on.

You have a bit of a slower combo, so head on shots will be difficult, try to catch the bird going across your frame instead.

I believe the t1i has a rather small buffer, so if you can nail the white balance and exposure, consider shooting in JPEG rather than raw.


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« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »


Rob'in'To

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Thank you Kin!  You've shared some great input.

The only reason I said about the tripod is that some pros who run classes at these places suggested having a tripod handy.  Unless they meant using it for perched photos?

I'm going to test some of this out on local birds before the day of the shoot.

Cheers!
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »
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BetCrooks

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Thanks for asking Rob and thanks to the responders for their advice. I'm learning too, even if I'm just "eavesdropping" !
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »


Kin Lau

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I find tripods very cumbersome for flight, and would only use it for static or perched shots. It can also be useful if you have to wait quite some time for the bird to do something different - owls are like that.


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« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »


MEGHAN

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Hey Rob,



The CRC is a great place to get some shots of birds you would not normally have a chance to get close to. You will also have lots of time to get your settings right. James will wait till everyone is ready before getting the bird to fly. Take that time to take your static shots and to make sure your exposure is good. I would say get yourself in manual and off of AV. Never let the camera set the exposure, it rarely gets it right. It will end up exposing for the background, Like the darker trees or brighter sky, instead of the bird itself. With that being said, do what is comfortable for you. Don’t use the opportunity at the CRC to start experimenting, you might come home with no shots. So stick with how you normally shoot and then going forward start playing around with your camera at other places with other birds. As Paul said, Seagulls are a great bird to experiment on for flight shots as well as learning how to nail perfect exposure as they are a black and white bird that flies around a lot. Sharp turns, hovering and random directional changes. If you can nail Seagulls in flight then you are well on your way.
You will not know what birds you will be shooting at the CRC until you get there. It depends what mood the birds are in that day.
You will probably get a Bald Eagle, Kestrel, Harris Hawk, Barn Owl, Great Horned Owl. He has a Snowy he has been working with that he might bring out. Great Grey Owl are there as well but I do not know if that is a bird he will bring out.
You will do great with the Bald Eagle. Nice statics and in flight. The birds fly from post to post or from and a-frame to a post. There is not a great distance between the two but the Eagle flies pretty slow. Probably about 10 flaps of its wings between the perches. Go in and get your perched shots then stand back behind and to the side of the post it will be coming to. Stay back on your zoom because when the bird launches off the post you may clip the wings if you are not fast enough to keep it in the frame. Better to crop then clip parts of the bird off.
Same for the Great Horned Owl and Barn Owl.
The Kestrel is super-fast. Again get some nice statics of all the birds first. I could the Kestrel in flight and that was with a 10fps camera. Not saying you cannot do it, don’t take it like that, but man are they fast. Especially since they are only flying about 40 feet. Another bird I had a problem with was the Harris Hawk. I found then tough as well. When they fly such a short distance they certainly do whip over the ground. Longer flight distance slows then down a bit.
Also, you can work with James, he’s the owner and is quite able to take your suggestions. There are a few large rocks on the ground to the right when you come out of the covered “building” onto the property area you will be shooting in. A nice shot is the Eagle sitting on one of those rock. If you ask him he may get the bird to fly from the perch onto one of those rocks.  Give him ideas if he can do it he will.
You will not need a tripod there. You have a light lens and you will be moving around too much getting in position that a tripod with end up hurting not helping in this situation. It will just get in the way. Believe me, I use a tripod all the time, I don’t remember the last time I took a picture without one. Static and flight shots and I think I do pretty good.  But that is one place I would not bring it. You will want to move all the time to get yourself in a better position. Standing up, crouching down even sitting on the ground to get as many different looks as possible.
Move around Rob, don’t get stuck in one spot taking the same shot over and over again.
I do not know if anything I said is helpful or not. I never really gave you any advice on what setting to use. I have shot there a few times so if you have any questions I can try to answer them.
Looks like it will be bright and sunny so you can keep your speed up and your iso down.
Have a great time!

Meghan
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »
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Rob'in'To

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Further useful input Kin.  Thanks!

And thank you Meghan for giving me a pretty good visual of the place, the set up.

I'm not expecting museum quality stuff.  But it would be nice to capture something decent but I also want to ensure I'm having fun, enjoying the birds and not just focusing on my camera and settings.  Know what I mean?

I haven't had much opportunity to get down by the lake for flight shot practice on Gulls, and my Pigeon crew at home are hiding a lot these days thanks to the many Hawks.  I've been free on bad weather days, and even one attempt had us saying "screw this" after half an hour this past Saturday.

I know my "comfort zone" can produce something on occasion.  Not amazing crystal clear perfect but pretty cool anyways.  Examples below.  And I will provide some examples from the CRC in-flight later.

So next question, if I were to upgrade something in my "artillery", what would be a good choice?  Canon 7D?  I'm talking something under the $2k price.

American Kestrel photo'd in AV 6.3, exp -2/3, ISO 1600


Snowy Owl, I wasn't expecting him to take flight so I shot away regardless.  AV 6.3, exp +2/3, ISO 400





And one Ring-billed Gull, similar settings as the Snowy

« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »
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nkwali

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[attachment=0:2l1xn2rg]whimbrelsmresized.jpg[/attachment:2l1xn2rg]I shoot with a canon 7D and a handheld 100-400 mm Canon lens. It hasn't let me down. I find the body comfortable to hold and the settings easy to manipulate in the moment.  I'd recommend it for something that isn't going to break the bank and give you some high quality images.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Guest »