Polarizing filters/lenses
Outdoor Ontario

Polarizing filters/lenses

ravynne40 · 25 · 13710

ravynne40

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does anyone use polarizing filters? does it reduce brightness and reflections off water and whites?
i'm finding my camera is shooting light and the whites are basically really white (almost too white)
and some reflections off water surfaces are also light mostly on bright sunny days.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ravynne40 »
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mike

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I use a polarizing filter for scenic shots only. I try to keep my shutter speeds up and the filters tend to make that a little more difficult.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by mike »


Photoman

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Hi Irene

     I only use ND (neutral density) filters when shooting waterfalls and use to use polorizers when I was using film.  As for digital, I rely on my histograhm in my camera to adjust my whites when shooting a white object. I usually under exspose to 2 F stops, somtimes 3 on a bright sunny day and a slightly faster shutter speed for this application depending on what I am shooting, then I can adjust my exposure in photoshop to bring it back up without blowing out the whites. Once the whites are blown out, it's very hard to get rid of. Also try ISO 100 or 200 on bright days.
I hope this helps you.

Clemens  8)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Photoman »


ravynne40

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thank you both, i just learned how to work with the f-stops recently so am still figuring it all out, I never thought to use the histogram in the camera but I will give it a go
there's nothing worse then shooting a beautiful white bird or waterfalls and not being able to fix the blow out.

i am shooting at 200 ISO. So that helps

thanks again

Irene
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ravynne40 »
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Brian Bailey

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Irene,

A polarizer will help bring out the colours on a sunny day, but it will cost you 1-1/2 f-stops,  So, if you're shooting with a long lens, you are only likely to want to use a polarizer when it's really bright, or with a tripod.

BB
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Brian Bailey »
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Kin Lau

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Just to add that a polarizer won't do anything for blowing out whites. I rarely need a polarizer when shooting birds, but it is very useful for taking the glare off foliage. It'll make a difference for fall colours.. you can test out the effect with your sunglasses.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Kin Lau »


ravynne40

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Thanks for the great replies.
Will it help with shooting in snow/or snow covered ground?
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ravynne40 »
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Brian Bailey

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It might help a bit in some bright sunlight situations, but don't get your hopes up.  The problem is that your eye can distinguish a much broader dynamic range of light than your camera's sensor (or film).  You'll have much more success brightening the dark areas with a flash than darkening the light areas.

Natural light is typically less contrasty on overcast days and near dawn and dusk.

BB
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Brian Bailey »
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Michael Tam

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Polarizing filter is generally used to remove glare off surfaces.  It will cause you to loose about 1 stop of light. I use it for scenics, while never with action photography.  Dependent on the angle of incident light, polarizing filter may or may not improve the subject reflectance, therefore improve the saturation and contrast.  It is very useful in scenes that have water, sky, even interior architecture shots that have reflective surface.

In general, to get a proper exposure, unless you are a very experienced photographer, the Exposure Compensation button is needed whenever the metered shot appeared incorrect.  The rule is: To keep white white, over-expose; while to keep black black, under-expose.  It applies to everything, even in portraits.  This is because the camera meter everything at 18% grey tone. To eliminate guess work, and only if you can reach the subject at hand, use an incidence meter.  For a cheaper alternative, I also carry a Grey Card (18% grey) for subjects such as flower photography which has great tonal range. Hope this is helpful.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2009, 08:55:37 AM by Michael Tam »


ravynne40

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Thanks, it is very helpful and informative.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ravynne40 »
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Michael Tam

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In regard to the use of histograms to evaluate the file as described above by Clemens, it is a more advance technique requiring more knowledge in interpretation.  Please see the links below for explanation:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/histograms.htm
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/yrgb.htm

In the days of film, there is an opposing requirement in exposure.  For slide film with narrower exposure lattitude, always avoid blowing highlights. Therefore set the ISO at one third stop underexpose.  Conversely, for negative film, always avoid loosing into a black hole.  Therefore set the ISO at one third stop overexpose.  In the digital world, it is a more complex matter with a very steep learning curve. One can learn a lot by going to many photo websites, such as:

http://photo.net/
http://www.naturephotographers.net/sitemap.html
http://www.shutterbug.com/techniqueslp/

Enjoy the making of great photography, by not simply taking pictures (remember the Canon ad). :)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Michael Tam »


Michael Tam

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To further understand the use of filters or filter system in Landscape & Nature Photography, these articles may be very helpful:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutori ... ilters.htm

http://www.bythom.com/filters.htm

http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/01/se ... using.html

Good birding and photography
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Michael Tam »


surfinbird

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Here are two photos I took . One with a polarizer and one without . I also use it when taking pictures of kayakers.

« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by surfinbird »
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Michael Tam

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One further issue to consider in the use of filters is the Flare Factor.  It is much discussed amongst the purists whether a "protective" UV filter should be installed on all lens:

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/colum ... b-05.shtml

It has been said that much of the effect of filters can be corrected during post-processing with software such as Adobe Lightroom 3 or Photoshop CS5, dependent on one's preference in the use of time in the field vs in front of the computer.  I adopt the shooting discipline from the film days, that is "do it right the first time".  This further article will assist in creating a filter system for Landscape & Nature Photography:

http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/03/es ... lling.html

Good birding and photography.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by Michael Tam »


ravynne40

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Thanks for sharing this information.
I can't believe how much difference the filters really make in those shots ..I am also looking at puffers! I discovered them at a dinner party, a friend of mine was using them, and wow let me tell you what a difference and how nice the pictures came out, especially clear and clean, not light shadows on the faces of the people, you know how sometimes light reflects off the nose or cheeks, there was none of that, just soft lovely skin tones.

I will study the websites you have given more

Thank you Michael.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 07:00:00 PM by ravynne40 »
Dream, fly, soar and believe!  http://www.flickr.com/ravynne40