Panama or Costa Rica?

[Andy]

My wife and I are planning a trip for the end of January and have singled out these two countries. If any of you have comments or suggestions to help in our decision, I'd really appreciate hearing them.  We don't need to amass a many hundred species list, but, obviously, we'd like to *see* lots of birds. I emphasize "see" since we have birded in heavily treed areas where ID is mostly by calls, and we'd like to actually be able to get reasonable views rather than wonder what we are hearing. And yes, I have done quite a bit of online searching but that has only added to the confusion...

[Iain]

Having only been to Costa Rica and not Panama, my opinion is obviously biased.  However, it was a great trip and I tallied 170 species (all but one identified by sight rather than sound).

Here's a recent write-up I did for friend who was also planning a trip to CR:

Monteverde is worth it, if possible do Monteverde and Arenal Volcano back to back as they are relatively close to each other.  In Monteverde you'll get lots of hummingbirds and its the best place to see the Quetzal (we saw three late in december).  We stayed at Monteverde Lodge which was very nice, food was not exceptional, but the birds around the lodge itself made up for it (Emerald Toucanets join you for breakfast on the terrace outside the restaurant).  Arenal was also good for hummingbirds (Black-crested Coquette among many others) as well as a ton of songbirds (many tanager species) and Montezuma's Oropendolas everywhere.  We stayed at the Arenal Observatory Lodge which was again nice, and had good food (better than Monteverde).  

Carara National Park is famous for its Scarlet Macaws, we stayed at nearby Villa Lapas which wasnt too expensive, but not all that impressive (but again, close to the park).  You can hire a guide at the front gate the day before you want the tour.  This is necessary because otherwise you cant get into the park until 9am or something.  The guide was very helpful and we got a bunch of good birds including Painted Bunting, Gray-necked Wood Rail, Pygmy Kingfisher and Riverside Wren (and its good for Monkeys).  

Last but not least Tortuguero was probably my favourite spot.  We stayed Tortuga Lodge which was incredible.  On the expensive side but the food and service was amazing.  A trip into the National Park is included and very worthwhile (got every species of kingfisher except belted on the one trip, crocodile, caiman and three monkey species) and the birds on the property itself were fantastic.  Toucans, Aracari, Fruitcrow and many more.

A lot of these places are owned by a group called Costa Rica Expeditions which means you have to book through them.  They were very organized and friendly.

I have also heard good things about Corcovado so that might be another worthwhile destination depending on how long you're going for.  
Here's a link to the photos I got (with an old 1989 canon lens).

http://flemingphotography.fotopic.net/c831869.html

If you are interested in seeing my species list from the trip just PM me and I'll send it your way.

Good luck,

Iain Fleming

[David Shilman]

...Here's a link to the photos I got (with an old 1989 canon lens).

http://flemingphotography.fotopic.net/c831869.html

Nice pics!

David

[jimtfoto]

Andy:
I'm also biased, having only been to Costa Rica. Here's a link to some galleries on my website:
Birds - http://www.pix2go.ca/gallery/Costa-Rica-Birds
Animals - http://www.pix2go.ca/gallery/nested-album
General Costa Rica travel - http://www.pix2go.ca/gallery/album04

and a link to an article I wrote for the Toronto Sun Travel magazine - http://www.pix2go.ca/gallery/Published/Feb27spread_05

My wife and I would make this trip again in a heartbeat.

cheers,
jim

[Andy]

Thank you Iain and jimtfoto, your comments and photos are really appreciated. They have stirred even further my desire to go to Costa Rica. Unfortunately, so far we have been unable to book a flight; seems we waited too long to make arrangements. We'll keep trying in the hope somebody will cancel. As it is now, it looks like we'll be going to a less birdy location, having to choose between St. Lucia, Aruba or the Caymans. Any of which are undoubtedly wonderful places to visit, but when one's mind is set on birding, these are all second (or worse) choices. But, thanks to your great photos, at least I now  know what I'll be missing ... :cry:

[mike]

Hi Andy,
Wish I'd seen this sooner. My girlfriend and I have been to both places. We actually just got back from Costa Rica from a vacation there this month. We were in Panama last year. I love both places and have been to Costa Rica several times. If you go there, definitely check out Carara Biological Reserve. They have 2 paths which I know of. The second one I was told goes 4km into the jungle and runs along side the Tarcoles River. That was the path we took. We didn't walk the whole path but I believe there's probably less people on that one because of the length. There was some mud near the beginning, than it was fine the rest of the way. An amazing walk through there! We also stayed in the Manuel Antonio area at a nice little place called Hotel Espedilla. Very nice people there and it's a very short walk to the park. Very green there. As far as Panama goes, the Gamboa Rainforest Resort is a must for any birder. That was the place that introduced me to birding. We were on the arial tram waiting for the ride back after coming down from the lookout tower at the top and there it was sitting in the fork of a tree roughly 40ft off the ground..a Harpy Eagle! The wildlife at that resort is incredible! It was everywhere. I have an extreme urge to go back there which I hope to do in the next couple of years. A beautiful 4 plus star resort set on the Chagres River just off the Panama Canal. If you ever go there, follow the road (it's only about 10 minutes or so) from the hotel up to the base of the arial tram after it shuts down for the day and nobody's around. It's a dead end there and surrounded by jungle. The sounds coming out of there at that time will blow your mind. Cheers
Mike

[Andy]

Thanks, Mike, for the information. We ended up going to Cancun since this was a last minute trip and we couldn't get reasonably-priced flights to our preferred destination. We figured we'd just go anywhere to escape the cold and do a proper birding trip in a few weeks. Plans now are to go to Gamboa. A good friend of mine did his graduate work there and he just raves about it. From your and his descriptions, Gamboa is a must see. We can't delay this too much since we want to be there before the rainy season sets in. Am looking forward to seeing the birds that will later show up here in Ontario.

BTW. Birding in Cancun was nothing to write home about. Other than grackles, pelicans, doves and frigatebirds, there was not much to see. But it still beat the numbing cold that greeted us upon our return... :cry:

[David Shilman]

...Plans now are to go to Gamboa...

We'll be anxious to hear your review!

David

[Andy]

Ouch.. The pressure's on...  :shock:

[cloaca]

Ahoy hoy.   As someone who has been to both Costa Rica and Panama, I strongly agree with your choice to go to Panama.  Costa Rica is great, but it's more crowded and a bit more expensive.  I don't know what your budget is like, but I would look into staying somewhere other than the Gamboa Rainforest Resort while you're in the Gamboa area.  The grounds are great for birding, but there's no reason to shell out the money to stay in such a fancy place.  A 4-star hotel isn't really the Panama experience, is it?  Besides, the property is not restricted for hotel patrons... outsiders are welcome to walk around their grounds.

I'm sure your friend has told you all about it, but make sure you spend at least a few days birding Pipeline Rd.   Man, the birding there is insane.

I don't know how long you'll be down there, but it's really quite easy to cross the border into Costa Rica if you want to go chase some endemics.

Have fun!

[Andrew McKinley]

I lived in Panama for five months and could give you great advice on birding there if you like. I would suggest Panama personally, it is cheaper, there are far less tourists, and some of the best parks offer huge bird numbers. Vulcan Baru national park is incredible and even Soberania (about 20 minutes from downtown Panama City) is excellent. I had incredible luck in Panama and even managed to see the famous Harpy Eagle. You can move around the country rapidly and there are alot of other amazing animals as well.

Send me a private message if you want to talk more.
-Andrew

[Andrew McKinley]

Hey, Its Andrew again. I just read that you are planning to go to Gamboa. GOOD CHOICE! I lived about 1/2 an hour from there... let me know if you want some advice... if you are an endurance hiker Pipeline road (near the Smithsonian Barro Colorado Boat launch) is an absolutely amazing trail (though you need to know where to go... don't listen to tour guides). That's where I saw a harpy and many other birds, mammals, and other animals.

Man I wish I was going back there...
-Andrew

[mike]

I'm planning on going back to Panama next year Oct./Nov. I'm going to book again at the Gamboa as well. I was there once and remember that I just had to go back to that spot. That was my initiation into birding with a Harpy Eagle sighting, sitting in a tree about 40ft up staring down at us as we waited for the cable car ride back down to the base. I didn't even get to do Pipeline road at that time because I didn't know any better. I do know:o) Any advice on where to go on Pipeline road would be greatly appreciated. That area is one amazing gem on this earth. The wildlife there is incredible. I even watched a croc walk across the resort property down to the river one morning. I was in awe. I managed to get less than 10ft. from a Tiger Heron walking around the property. I could go on like the Trogon that landed on a branch beside me walking through the rainforest but I won't:o) Incredible place!

[Andrew McKinley]

Hi Mike,
As I said, I lived in Panama for five months and have had spent alot of time on pipeline road... it is really incredible...
Here's me advice for that area:
First, to get to pipeline road ask someone to take you to the Smithsonian Barro Colorado boat launch. The gravel road near the boat launch continues parallel to the canal and if you follow it you will reach a gate that marks the entrance to pipeline road within 5-10 minutes. First though, check out the marsh that is opposite the canal about 100 meters back down the road from the boat launch - a good place to spot water birds such as herons, Jacana, and even Capybara (if you are particularly lucky).
Now for pipeline road....
When I left (in June) they were expanding part of the road to build a second canopy tower... the construction covered the first 4 km of the trail and the noise and widening of the trail diminished the viewing... also, high tourism traffic at the start of the trail makes it hard to see alot of rate birds... however, this should not discourage you because the rest of the trail is excellent. Pipeline road does not have any major sidepaths except for a new road that was built off of it that goes to the site of the new canopy tower. This is about 1 1/2 km down the road. When you find this fork stay to the right and you will continue down the original pipeline road. Now, once you clear about 4 kilometers you will be well past the construction and most other tourists.. you will only run into hard core nature lovers and Smithsonian researchers past this point. ALWAYS take a good look down the rivers/streams when you pass over them (I've seen some great stuff down there) and be cautious on the bridges... some are rotting, but still crossable with care. Personally, I think the best viewing is past Rio Mendoza (8.8 km down the trail) as this is where the trail narrows and virtually no other people will be present. Also, the mammal and frog viewing along this path is excellent! Between 6 and 10 km down the path I have seen a plethora of wildlife including Peccaries, Ocelot (on one special occasion), Tayra, many trogons, a Harpy Eagle, sunbittern, tiger herons, and many other species. Just watch for snakes and bring plenty of water. If you go at night or near dawn or dusk past km 6 you have a good chance at seeing some mammals...
Be very careful about leaving the path when on pipeline road... you are safe on the path but there are pit vipers in the bush and if you get bit far in you will be in serious trouble.
If you do leave the path keep in mind that there are Fer de Lance pit vipers on the ground but also Eyelash pit vipers hanging from vines and lianas so watch yourself!
Lastly, if you are seriously into birds I highly recommend getting a flight over to Boquete and going to Vulcan Baru National Park.. it is incredible and you can see Resplendent Quetzals there and some rare volcano birds on Baru.
Hope that helps, if you have more questions post them and I can let you know all about Panama... I've visited nearly the whole country...
-Andrew

[mike]

Thanks Andrew I really appreciate that. It's funny, when we were at the Gamboa last time they mentioned if we were lucky enough, late at night when they did their night drive around the property with the spotlight, you may see Capybara...I saw them everyday wallowing by the rivers edge..in fact I was taking people down to see them because I had found their hangout during the day. This time I would love to see the Resplendent Quetzal and I won't be veering off the trail with what you've told me about the Pit Vipers! I have no idea how the trail is but is it possible to drive in to where the trail narrows and walk out (or in further) from there? FYI..Mark Nash of the Canadian Peregrine Foundation put my Harpy Eagle shots on their website. It was only a borrowed 3mp camera at that time ( I now have a 40D with an L series lens:o) so the shots aren't very good but just seeing that majestic creature and being in the Gamboa changed my life. Standing at the base of the Canopy ride (after it closed for the day and nobody was around) a few minutes walk from the hotel when it was dusk was just increadible. The sounds coming out of the jungle there were insane! Thanks again for the info Andrew.